» 2010 » July
A lot has happened over the past week…………..Warning, this is a long entry, so it may take a while to read.
Cuy, Heart & Alpaca
I have eaten roasted cuy (guinea pig), beef heart on skewers and alpaca (a lamb like ). Alpaca was my favorite, the closest thing to it in taste is lamb. Cuy tastes kind of gamy, it does not have a lot of meat, but the meat is closest to chicken. In the pictures above, you can see me chomping down on some.
Cactus fruit and more
I have eaten some strange fruit. The green thing is cactus fruit and it looks and tastes like a Kiwi but with the sourness of a lemon. The other are grenadine and another strange fruit
Colca Canyon and Condors
Last weekend, I went to the largest canyon in the world, or so they say in Peru. Colca Canyon is near Arequipa which is 10 hours south of Cusco. There, we trekked around the canyon for a few hours and bird watched for Condors, the largest birds in the world.
THE WEEKLY BREAKDOWN
Last Wednesday a few friends from my church in C’ville (Brian & Stephanie) just happened to be traveling around Cusco and they took me out to dinner. We had dark Cusquena’s and all of the great meat mentioned above. They will probably the only people I see from my normal life during my trip. It was great, there was also a show and we saw a few teens (which happen to be the best) do a dance flipping around with scissors in their hands. This was contrary to our western thinking, which tells children not to do anything with scissors in their hands. I was slightly homesick when they left. They did leave me with a nice North face jacket which was great.
Thursday, I had the best bus ride in my life. Here the night buses are wonderful, we (Julie, Elizabeth and I) left at 8 pm and arrived at 5 am. There is so much room, the seats go almost all the way back and there is even someplace to rest your feet. On this buses, they give you dinner and drinks like on a plane. We arrived comfortable in the morning. The only glitch was that they took some sharp curves which woke me up every now and again.
Conversely, the way back was the worst ride of my life. Here are the misshaps – it was 11 hours, we made at least 20-25 stops along the way, there was no bathroom, for the first half ladies with two babies sat behind me and they were talking and cooing, kicking my chair and knocking me in the head the whole time, there was a man who tried to sell something for the first 45 minutes (mind you the bus left at 7 am), there were about 20 people who got on at random stops trying to sell things – the best was a women who got on with the big black plastic bag and begin to cut up whole chickens into pieces with a very large butcher knife. This was done on the stairs of the bus. The chicken pieces were then put in a plastic bag to sell for 8 soles. Classic Peru!!!
From Thursday to Sunday, I visited Arequipa, which is the second largest city in Peru. It is nicknamed the “White City” because many of the building are made of white volcanic rock. Its often overlooked because people usually go to Lima, Cusco or Puno, but its a wonderful city. There, we visited the main plaza, a museum where we saw one of the only frozen bodies in the world (an incan girl that was sacrificed on one of the mountains hundreds of years ago), an elaborate monastery and saw the sun set at an mirador (outlook) overlooking the city and El Misti (an active volcano). I ate corn and queso and drank Arequipena (beer).
On our second day, we rose at 2 am for a very bumpy 4 hour bus ride to Chivay to have breakfast and then drove to the Colca Valley which is rather dessert like in the dry season, but is grand. Can I say it was absolutely freezing in the morning and very hot in the afternoon. I reached 15,000 feet above sea level, my lungs and head were not happy about it either. I was panting the whole way trekking around the canyon. I am not sure where these people live or how they get there, but in the middle of the dessert people were selling things on the side of the road – food, sweaters, bags, wallets and more………….
Throughout the day and on the ride home, I saw llamas, alpaca’s, donkeys and cows in the pastures, on roadsides and sometimes they were blocking the roads ahead of us. We passed rivers, lakes, mountains and many small towns. In every town there is a entrance large sign and a round about with a statue in the middle. It was Sunday on the way back so almost every town had a market going on. Women got on and off our our bus at every stop selling chicken, bread and cheese (literally with 4 barrels of cheese in their bare hand),a bucket full of juices in a bag and an assortment of junk food.
On the way home, I kept thinking, “I am going to die on the bus in Peru” because the bus drivers drive so fast and lay on their horn like they are about to crash every 10 minutes. One of our drivers was hugging the cliff all day and at one point we came about 1 foot from crashing into a tractor trailer. Always and adventure.
Monday was the first day of my new placement. I am excited to have my own class. There are like 45-50 thirteen year old boys in my class which is absolutely crazy. I am teaching them family members in english along with adjectives for describing them. It was fun. The volunteer director stopped by and seems to think I am a pretty good teacher. The boys are loud and rambunctious, but they call me ¨profesora,¨ stand when I enter the room and when class is over, they thank me and a few of them gave me kisses on the cheak.
Arequipa
When the moon separated from the earth
it forgot to take Arequipa
for she too is clothed in white and dazzles all night
The prince of Peru´s 2nd bride
set apart and often cast aside for greater highs
but if you search beyond the naked eye
you will see that she is irresistibly sexy and electrifying
with a spicy nightlife
Over centuries she has plagued the heart of Peru with eruptions and earthquakes
For some, her wild terrain is hard to take
yet others cant wait for a taste of her salty lakes
to take a dip in between those hot springs or
to mount her Andean peaks
but this princess ain’t cheap
her altitude is high
enough to make a grown man shiver, gasp for air or even cry
while overlooking those voluptuous vistas
Yes, I am talking about Arequipa
Not only an intellectual powerhouse and fashionably sheik
the woman is deep
Her canyons are the grandest in the world
Yet her being holds two tales
Urban form strung together by natures white pearls
Her body is built by pure volcanic rock
The center of her being is spotless, flawless and blazing hot
On the flip side
her rugged nature can not be denied
You would be truly amazed that
in her youthful days she was raised
beside snow capped volcanoes, rivers, valleys and caves
Putting even the most skilled outdoors man to the test
Even so, in the princes´ eyes she is always second best
but in Colca country
her wings span wider than that of a condor
which is why she should never be forgotten
and can not be ignored
Randomness
It costs .50 cents to go to the bathroom and there is s never any tissue and never anything to dry your hands with.
The best deal of the trip was a happy hour 3 mojitos for 10 soles, which is like $3.5.
This is really random, but here, most people do their laundry at a laundry service which costs between 3-5 soles a kilo. When I got mine done, they conveniently forgot to give me back my only long sleeve t shirt. It was a mini miracle to me, but when I went back, they actually found my shirt. I only have 10 shirts, so loosing one is a big deal. I did buy more socks, underwear and another pair of pants.
They other day, I had the most fun doing a salsa line dance. It was kind of like a moccorena mixed with the electric slide. Soooo much fun, I have to take salsa lessons before I leave.
I am still an anomaly here and people walk up to me daily and ask where I am from with much amazement and excitement. I must say that they are usually disappointed when I say the US. On my way to the bathroom at my volunteer center, another women stops me and asks “where are you from.” When I reply the US, she says “you must tell me about your people and your culture.” The other day a Quechuan women came up and talked to me while I was sitting on a park bench. She is from Chincero, about 2 hours from here, has 5 children and comes down to Cusco about 2 days a month to sell merchandise. Here name is Margarita. She was interested in how long I had been growing my hair. Its been 19 months and I can kind of make a small ponytail.
In and around Cusco, there is always a holiday, parade, construction or a strike going on. Today is independence day, the one day that should have a parade and me and my house mates waiting 2.5 hours for nothing. On the main avenue they are digging up the sidewalk/road with sledge hammers and icepicks. Its pretty impressive but that’s what you call hard labor. Yesterday, there were are rumors of a strike (no one drives or goes anywhere because people throw rocks at cars), and independence day is celebrated today and tomorrow, so I don’t have work or Spanish, which I am excited about.
On Friday morning, me and 3 of my housemates are going by car and train to Machu Picchu. I was initially thinking about doing a 4 day jungle trek in which you ride bikes for 3 hours one day, walk between 5-8 hours for the next two days and 3 hours the last day. I decided against it though, given that I am usually winded after a half hour walk to work and think I would probably faint. On Sunday there is a Pachamama (mother earth) festival I am excited to go to.
Oh and roll call – if you read this, say hello in the comments section, it gets lonely out here in blogger land. I’d like to know who is at least reading all this mumbo jumbo.
» 2010 » July
Unfortunately I have not had a lot of space in my brain to remember poems with all of the travel, navigating other cultures, languages and trying to teach English. I have been able to be pretty consistent about writing a poem or two a week. Though they need much editing, I wanted to share three poems that I have recently written with you, they are reflections of either things I have seen, been prompted by or read during my travels or thoughts. Comments and critiques are welcome, they are works in progress (i.e there are probably some typos, gramatical errors and elements i want to change)
This poem was the result of visiting a photo exhibit of Peru´s 20 years of civil war from 1980-2000. It was one of the most riveting exhibits that I have seen. The name of it was ¨remember¨ in Quechua, the indigenous language in peru and the exhibit was put together by the truth and reconciliation commission .
To Remember
In a cold white room surrounded by 179 black and white portrayals of myself
are some of my deepest tragedies frozen in time
These images make me wish I was blind
but I have a duty to emerge from the cloak of oblivion
open my eyes
and remember
It took twenty long years to digest this raw and rotten
internal conflict that churned deep within this belly
poisonous gas bubbled up
until I was overcome with a case of deadly diarrhea
and the body of this nation
spit out 69,000 thousand lives
into a murderous abyss that reeked from
disappearances, violence and war crimes
Yes this is me in all of my mess
Right here is the aftermath of mayhem and massacres
in that mountain of bare naked bodies
screaming with blood
Is evidence of how this country was brutally butchered
Do you see me over there?
In the of faces of orphans with scars reaching from their eyes to their lips
in the military arresting the guerrillas
and mothers fleeing with babies on their hips
There I go again in the hands of
women armed with guns to protect their homeland
I can also be seen at marches and rallies resisting and taking a stand
The testimonies torture ears
and the images ache eyes
but I have made a choice to emerge from this deadly past
by facing the facts reflected in this mirror of the terrible truth
This is me
These pictures are the proof
that I violated women and killed innocent youth
The loss is irreparable
but this collage paints a portrait that bring to life the death
experienced by our land
To remember, to reconcile ,to process
and to help my children understand
So we do not make the same mistake ever again
We remember
Arenal
As you all know I visited Arenal, an active volcano in Costa Rica last month. I wrote this poem thinking about what it must be like to live in the wake of an active volcano. About 40 some years ago, the people in La Fortuna did not know Arenal was a volcano, they thought it was a mountain. That was until it erupted, killing 80 ppl and leaving gaping dents and damages in the land. There is a man made lake where the town once was and when the water is low, you can still see the church steeple. The view from La Fortuna is green because the larva never flows on that side, but the other side of the mountain is grey.
At the foot of an active volcano
My house is situated at the foot of an active volcano
beautiful to the eye
lush and green on one side
a mountain reaching toward the blue sky
Only I see the results of what is hidden inside
your reverse hide
gray, rough and dry
I know you have deadly heat building
up at the core
When you will erupt I am never sure
I flinch with fear
when I hear the rumpling thunder
in my ears
that means your anger is near
I sit scared that your scotching
larva will escape
leave me bruised and beaten
red with blood gushing down these mountain
peaks that I call cheeks
For 40 years you have been exploding at night
not like clock work
you like to take me by surprise
you are quiet in the daylight and then in the evening
strike me with all of your might
I cry scarlet tears
my scars harden and leave black marks
evidence of what happened in the dark
The first blow was the hardest
It came out of nowhere
the person I know was just a mask
my vision of you went up in smoke so fast
in the heat from the gas
You threw ten ton rocks at my face
Permanently denting my sense of security
our marriage
died many deaths that afternoon
In one instance you changed from my sun
to a wolf howling over me in wake of a full moon
I sat with my head in between my knees
in disbelief
How could this be
You were such a natural phenomena
I loved to climb those peaks
Everybody thought you were so meek
but you never erupt to the east
where the world could see
only in one direction disturbing my peace
To survive
through the years
I damned up all of my tears
into hand made lake
the water was real, but the landscape was fake
I would cover your destruction
with a fluid smile built over that town where our loved once lived
When the weather is nice
and your blows don’t reign down so hard and fast
I see the steeple of hope
the highest point in our old town
I remember the life we had that is gone now
Why I stay at the foot of an active volcano
I cant answer the why or the how
I guess I believe that one day
That pressure inside will cease
that larva will dry out
And you will stop erupting
Talking is who I be
So, I just changed my mind I have a few other poems, but I realized that they are kind of, well maybe depressing is not the world, but they are not pick me uppers. So I leave you all with this one, this was written from a writing exercise about trying to explain the position or personality of somebody completely different from you. So I wrote this poem about people who talk to much. Enjoy!!!
Talking is who I be
Some say
Silence is Golden
Cause two ears and one mouth is a hint from God
to listen twice as much as you speak
But who can imagine going through life without even a peep
Don’t listen to those sayings about talking
my phone bill tells me it ain’t cheap
I don’t know nothing about silence
I talk from the moment I wake in the morning
until I lie down to sleep
and when that gets deep
I have conversations in my dreams
If my mind done gone too far from home
I leave a message at the beep
I admit I my mouth runs like water
I just cant hold it in
I know doing it to much is a sin
but I cant help but tell you when
I spoke to such and such
or that I love you so much
my list of things I am going to do today
or what I need to buy for that event in may
that’s exactly one hundred and eighty one days, 5 hours, 3 minute and 20 seconds away
Some say
that my talking runs people away
But I will follow you wherever you go if you try to stray
I don’t even bother me that the only word you have said in this conversations is hey
That’s all I need for my words to breed
This mouth is in heat
so I have to find a pair of ears to mate with so I can offspring my words in a heap
In my view talking is loving
and that’s the one thing no one can ever do too much
I talk cause I am overflowing with words, feelings, prayers and such
Talking to me is like a tender touch
A warm glass of tea
or a buffet at lunch
Its soothing, moving and fills my soul
Abundant cause my words just free flow
I cant be bothered with choosing them
If words were my keys
Every second I would loose them
You looky here
there are things that just need to be said
ears that need to be filled
and minds that need to be fed
I can’t keep all that is happening in my life
all bottled up in my head
Mock my words you gonna want to hear my voice when I am dead
And though my talking you may dread
I don’t even notice
cause when you ignore me
I talk more instead
I talk to the breeze, my verbs never freeze
I talk to the wind, so he can carrying my words out to the sea
Location dont mean nothing to me
i do it on the telephone lines and to people on the street
Just being who I am
You can’t stop me from being me
So just shut up and listen
cause talking is just who I be
» 2010 » July
Sorry fans, that have been quiet this week. Its been a bit tiring.
Saturday – I chilled with my volunteer housemates and in the evening went to the international volunteer party where the highlight was free drinks – sangria, mojitos, screw drivers and Cusquenas (the most popular beer named after Cusco).
On Sunday, I went on a 12 hour tour of Cusco’s Sacred Valley of the Incas. It seemed like the longest day of my life.
Problem number one – we waited almost an hour for our bus because our escort did not know which bus we were supposed to get on. Nice
Problem number two – I was on a bilingual tour and I could not understand the guides’ Spanish or English. He was talking like the he had marbles in his mouth. Double Nice!!!
Problem number three – All of the ruins had stairs and my heart almost blew out of my chest. It was quite funny actually, at one of the ruins, Ollantaytambo, which had like 10 flights of stairs, all of the tourist were keeled over halfway through. One minute I saw my guide at the bottom (mind you I was 3/4ths of the way up and it took me at least 10 minute) and the next minute he was in front of me. They say the people here have big lungs. Mine are obviously small.
On the tour I visited, Pisaq, Ollantytambo, Chincero
Pisaq is about 30 minutes from Cusco. There is a nice market there and we actually ran into a parade, Peruvians are always celebrating something. The parade was for the Virgin Carmen. There was dancing and people dressed in traditional costumes, very interesting. I had Traditional Dulce Empenada and I think it gave me food poison, but it was good. It had banana, sugar and cinnamon and something else I cant remember in it. There is an archaeological site a few miles up with fantastic views and agricultural terraces. Pisaq has rustic architecture because it was where the common Incans lived. This site was my favorite.
Then it was on to Ollantytambo, which is a testament to Incan urban planning. There are narrow streets, waterways (there is running waterways all threw town), hillside farming terraces and temples. We climbed up to The Temple of the Sun. The most amazing thing about this ruin was right across from the temple on another mountain, the Incans built the equivalent of a deep freezer. There used to be snow on some of the mountains and they would store their food there to keep it cold.
Lastly there was Chincero, which had a traditional Sunday market (people selling alpaca and food galor), colonial architecture and the colonial church. I was tired at this point and ready to go home.
On Monday, I think I had food poisoning, so I was in bed all day and finished the day with a few hours of Grey’s Anatomy. All the volunteers are obsessed with it. Its my favorite show and we are halfway through season three.
Randomness
We just got three new volunteers at our house, they are siblings, and they failed to read the weather forecast, so the first day they had to stock up on hats, gloves and warm clothes. They actually bought shorts, nobody here wears shorts. They would probably stair more then usual if I put a pair on, even though its quit hot during the day.
Strange Food – The other day, we had a very interesting dish. Imagine a two layer very yellow cake with white icing in the middle. What is it? I am not sure the name, but its actually chicken salad (that’s that white stuff in the middle) sandwiched by cold yellow mashed potatoes (that the yellow cake). Wait, I almost forgot, there is a layer of mayonnaise on top garnished with ¼ of a boiled egg and one olive. This dish is served cold. It not actually nasty, its just weird. Usually lunch is the most interesting meal of the day, interesting meaning non identifiable and not tasty. Breakfast is always cornflakes, strawberry yogurt (which is kept in a cabinet , i.e. non refrigerated) and bread and some excellent jam. Dinner is always some kind of chicken or beef with rice and potatoes, which is really good 95% of the time. Dessert is either hot chicha morada, Jello or rice pudding. The rice pudding is my fav and I don´t really like rice.
Search for firewood – Although it probably gets down in the 30′s and 40′s at night nobody here has indoor heat.- I heard it costs $350 American dollars, no wonder. Thus, my house is cold all of the time, even though its like in the 70′s during the day. I sleep all of my clothes on and my fleece plus two blankets. The other day, we discovered that our homestay had a fireplace. Its right in the living room, I am not sure how we missed it. Monday, we ventured out to buy firewood (this is after very bad 20 minute communication with our host mom about what it was called in Spanish and where to buy it). Alas, after a 20 minute walk, the store was closed. The next day we get it, fire it up and it goes out fairly quickly, why? Our hypothesis, is its because there is very little oxygen here. Mission failed!!!
Changing sites – I decided to change my volunteer placement to another school because the school I am at has between 30-40 kids in each class and we only meet with each class once a week. My school is always closed, case in point last week it was only open 2 days and yesterday one of the teachers told me that the school will be closed for the next two weeks. Me and two other volunteers probably see about 300 children a week because we have 10 classes a week and at least 25 children in each class. Its just not a workable system. Just to tell you a little about the school, its an elementary and middle school, it is only a few years old, has about 700 children and many of the children are poor and without proper nutrition and running water. They are precious though, I am always greeted and left with big hugs and goodbyes. Last year, the volunteers built a shower at the school because its the only place some of the children have to take showers twice a week. My favorite moments are the hugs, how excited they get to take pictures and see themselves in them and the moments they actually get something we taught them. We have been going over animals, colors, furniture and prepositions. I love their faces when they are correct or they are able to make sentences. Unfortunately, i was not able to make many connections with the children or learn too many names, but today my best students were Omar and Rodrigo (below). 
Here are a few others:
Lessons learned over the past few weeks – you must be patient, because there will be a lot of waiting, number two – you must be flexible because you may wake up and there might be a strike, celebration or holiday and something will be closed or delayed or plans will change. I have actually grown to like this variability.
Fighting for my soles – Cuzco is the tourist capital of Peru, so the locals are always trying to overcharge all of the volunteers because we are obviously tourists. At first, its like between .5 and 3 sols, which is more than $1 an you are like “whatever”, but then you kind of get tired of being hustled and fight for the .50cents. The other day I turned down two cabs because the price is supposed to be 2.50 sols and they kept trying to charge me 3 or 4. Fed Up!!! All of the volunteers just had quite the hilarious conversation about getting gangsta with people who keep trying to overcharge us because we are foreigners. The funny thing is that 1 sol is like $.30, but its the principal. Despite all of the above mishaps, though this is not my favorite place, its quite endearing and I enjoy it most of the time. These things make for interesting stories. Each day is an adventure, for better or for worst.
My eyes
Today, I saw a pig, a dog with dreadlocks, two donkeys, 3 llamas and a women with at least 30 lbs of wool in a sack on her back (the sack was bigger then her). I was cramped in my bus with about 30 kids and someone´s stomach was on my shoulder the whole time. While on a break at school, I talked for nearly one hour with this Peruvian man that was about 80. I was trying to memorize a poem when he came over and asked me what was on my paper. We got to talking and he told me all about his life; he is 80, his wife died a few years ago, he has 7 children (two girls and 5 boys), he used to work for the government for 40 years, now he farms potatoes and corn sometimes although not often because he has pain in his back, legs and knees, he eats three meals a day at a place right across from the main plaza and he remembers the earthquake of 1950. I wanted to take his picture, but he kept asking me for what and I couldn´t explain in Spanish so I dropped it. A lot of older people here do not like their picture taken because they believe it steals their soul. He asked me when I was coming to visit him and invited me somewhere for chicken. I will probably see him tomorrow, because my last day at the school is them. My favorite moment of the day was when he said something and I said no comprendo, and he replied in a deeper voice then usual ¨no comprendo?¨ in a tone as if to say you trying to BS me or something. It was very funny.
My favorites
Peruvians – Gabo, my house brother and the guy I met in the plaza today
Americans in Peru – Effie & Tiffany. They are Af Am from VA and absolutely hilarious. They make me laugh out loud several times a day. This hypothesis may be proven wrong during this trip, but i am convinced that African American people are the funniest people group alive.
Site: Saqsaywoman and The Plaza de Armas
Food or Drink – Chicha Morada
Write you you all next week. I am leaving tomorrow night to go to Arequipa which is a 10 hour busride, but its a real developed city and I am excited. Its supposed to have the deepest canyon in the world. I´ll let you know how it is.
» 2010 » July
So you may be wondering what my life is like in Peru.
I live with a host family of 4, five if you count the dog runi. My parents are Ivan & Liz and their two sons Gabo who is 11 and Patrick who is 13. Runi is their new annoying puppy, but he is cute too. I have to continuously step over runis pee puddles and he also craps all over the place. Yesterday he got into my room and chewed threw my water bottle. Gabo is also adorable and though he is 11 but looks like he is 8. Runi and Gabo are the troublemakers in the family because these are the names I hear every morning. Ivan yells Gabo s name all morning for him to get up and runi, so he will stop barking.
10 volunteers including myself live in that house, so its quite full and fun. 7 folks from the US – Marie, FeFe, Tiffany, Julia, John & Mara & Gregg that just just left. Then there was Bhavika and Robin who are from Canada. We are like a little family that eat breakfast lunch and dinner together at 7:45, 1:30 and 7:30. We try to identify our meals and most of the time we have much luck and its good. There is alot of rice and potatoes though. Dessert is usually some purple slime stuff which is hot and i dont like. Last week we had an international dinner and Bhav who is Indian cooked us some Indian food, and then we had some fajitas and plantains. It was Robins birthday so we also had a chocolate cake which was good but did not rise well with the altitude. Strange things about Peru, they do not refrigerate alot fo things, like eggs, butter and yogurt. We also go out a few times a week. There is quite the night life. We have alot of fun together and hanging out with them has been some of the my best times here. I feel like i am in college again since they are all under 23.Since three of the other girls are also black, every place we go that plays music usually changes to hip hop as soon as we walk in which is funny. When we all walk down the street at night in the main plaza, there are guys that work for the main clubs and bars that crowd us and try to get us to come to their place which usually includes free drink passes. Also in the main plaza way too late at night are little children who are usually selling gum. One followed us around the plaza the other night and he was not particularly nice either. He was waiting for us around one corner while we exited the lounge and proceeded to scare us by yelling, boooo from out of a corner. There are alot of children on the streets either doing cartwheels or selling snacks.
I live about a 30 minute walk (i usually make this walk 2-3 times a day) or $1 cab ride away from the volunteer office which is where i check my email, get free coffee and tea, take spanish and books tours. There are about 200 other volunteers here and its a language school for locals, so the place is always packed. I work for about 3 hours a day teaching english, although last week my school was closed for holidays 3 out of five days. I go home for lunch then meet with my spanish conversation partner, Nick and we talk for an hour before my 2 hour spanish class. My spanish teachers is Jorge, whom is rather metro and a good teacher. I am a star in the class. Not really, but i can read spanish but my speaking needs alot of work. I have another month, so hopefully that will get better. In our two hour class, there are 6 ppl and we do most of the talking and are forbidden to speak english for the most part. I basically get 10 hours of spanish a week for $50 and a free conversation partner. Its great.
On the weekends most of the volunteers go on tours in a 10 hour radius around Cusco. I have a tour of the Sacred Valley of the Incas all day tomorrow. I have a musuem pass, so i have been to about 6 museums plus went to a traditional peruvian dance performance wednesday. I sat at the foot of Pachacuteq, a great Incan king of which there is a statue and small museum in the middle of the city. From his vantage point, I could see the whole city. I will probably go on tours for 3 of my 4 remaining weekends. Tonight, there is an international party at the volunteer center. They have it once a month which should be fun.
Thats life in Cusco…..
» 2010 » July
The other day, a friend of mine asked me what I had learned about myself during my time traveling thus far. I thought, mmmm, what is a good question. Similarly, I Skyped with my church the other day, they had me projected on a screen during service and my pastor asked me where I had seen God.Yet another good questions and point of reflection. So below are my thoughts on both:
I HAVE LEARNED:
That I really like little kids and I like teaching English though its exhausting. They are precious.
I like taking tours of historic places, but i really like pastoral places. The capital cities have not been my favorites, they are crowded, noisy and are just big cities.
I love talking to random people and hearing their stories. The ¨where I am from¨ poem has giving me a chance to get some insight into peoples lives, culture and upbringing. Every time i do it with somebody, i absolutely love it. I have learned that people are more similar then we all think and we all laugh, cry, hurt and love a lot of the same things.
I also like basic things like hot water, which i miss. So maybe i learned that i am a little more high maintenance then I thought. haha
I have learned how to be more dependent. I live on other peoples hospitality and kindness and that’s always like a breath of fresh air. I need that now(other peoples kindness) in a way that i never needed it in the US. At home I am independent and comfortable, but being a foreigner and being welcomed is a blessing in many respects. Even somebody being gracious with my bad Spanish, giving me directions and stuff like that. Relying on others is humbling, but really awesome to be in the receiving end of it. I also have to make friends fast, because its just better not to go places alone, which is hard sometimes, because I am used to going where I want to go and doing what I want to do when I want to do it.
My prayers are alot more simple, like Lord me not far from me, or that goodness and mercy will follow me and to remember that God is with me wherever I go.
What I want to learn over these 5 weeks in Peru and perhaps during my entire trip to have some more insight into the secret of contentment. I hope that I may be able to have fully experienced whatever this adventure has to offer, for better or worst – to embrace it and be content and present in each moment, even the hard ones. Which reminds me of Paul says in Philippians ¨I know what it is to be in need, and I know what it is to have plenty. I have learned the secret of being content in any and every situation, whether well fed or hungry, whether living in plenty or in want.¨ He goes on to say, ¨I can do all things through Christ who gives me strength¨
WHERE I HAVE SEEN GOD
Most of Latin America is very catholic and has been deeply influenced by the catholic church since the arrival of the Spanish. That is to say, there are many many cathedrals in every city and town I visit- though I am not at all catholic. There are an abundance of churches, convents and monasteries from the 16th century that are historic and still in operation. There are religious festivals, statues of saints and other religious symbols everywhere. In almost every city I have been to thus far, there is a cross at the top of a prominent hill that you can see from anywhere in the village, town of city below. So literally, I am surrounded by reminders of God, but the above mentioned things have not been where I have seen God most or felt his presence.
Where I have seen God the most is in my protection and provision, in the faces of people and the natural landscapes of each country.
Protection and Provision – The world is both an ugly place and a wonderful place at the same time. I have been so blessed to be safe thus far and people around me are so kind, helpful and generally hospitable. I am indeed a stranger (one who sticks out like a sore thumb most of the time) but I have been welcomed in by so many people, into their homes, into their experiences, stories, schools and lives. What a blessing. Also, there is the very wonderful fact that my journey is made possible by the generosity of those who love me.
Faces of People – I see God in the shinning smiles of people whom according to their life current circumstances and past tragedies should not be smiling. I am reminded of a friend I made along my travels, who told me her rather tragic life story. This person was abandoned, raped numerous times, beaten, abused, has seen death first hand and suffered from addiction, yet she still has joy in her heart and wears the one of biggest smiles I have every seen. That just goes to show you how resilient people are. Her story has been horrible, but she has overcome her addictions, been reconciled to people from her past and has experienced the healing and redemptive affects of love. I am reminded of the scripture that ¨love covers a multitude of sins.¨
Secondly, I have seen so many people with not even half of what a normal person has in the US, probably half of what an impoverished person has, and they are still smiling and have so much joy. All of the children at both of the schools that I have taught at have been some of the most enjoyable people to be around, and not because their lives are easy or that they have everything they want. There is something to be learned from their sense of joy, gratefulness and the extent to which they welcome foreigners into their lives. I think these things can only be gained from God and when I see them in other people, I see God shining through.
The Pearls of the Pastures – I have been in rainforests, hot springs, crossed rivers and lakes, seen waterfalls, been at the top of mountains, volcano´s and seen some pretty amazing natural scenery. Its all mind blowing actually. I look out at these picturesque places and I see the fingerprints of God. Nature and beauty like this are not happenstance. The earth in all of its glory, beauty and mystery proclaim the Glory of God and that proclamation gets louder and louder the more I travel and the more I witness the and partake of the fruit of the earth. Even the things that are man made, I see God in those things as well. That He has created such intelligent and creative beings in His image that can build monuments, cultures, empires and cultivate such rich lives – and even leave remnants of themselves for us to learn from and marvel.
The above mentioned things have left me with an open heart, wide eyes and mouth agape….and even more importantly grateful to have such an opportunity, grateful for you all that support and travel with me and thankful to God, who is over all and in all of it.
Randomness
Yesterday at school, some boy asked me what was that on my head. Oh this, pointing to me hair….is my heart. Later, before class a few children who were about 6 surrounded me and being to ask questions.
Where are you from,? The Unites States
You are not from Africa? Well my family was a long time ago, but I live in the US. There are many black people in the US.
Is the sun really hot in the US, is that why your skin is like that? No, I am black, this is all natural.
Does your hair grow like that? Black people´s hair is different from people in Peru, but I make my hair like this, its called locs, its normal for black people in the US. They reply, its not normal for people in Peru. I say, well there are not alot of black people in Peru. The little boy replies, yeah there are only like .05% (random number)
Too funny.
Second random thing, I take a 45 minute bus ride to the school and the bus is always packed. Yesterday, I am absolutely sure this old women, carrying like 5 carton of eggs mind you, cursed the bus driver out because he did not stop when she wanted him too. She was screaming loud, of course i didnt catch any of the actual words, but my co-teacher said she definitely said something like ¨go to hell¨.
No school today, there is a festival today and tomorrow. I have ran into at least five different events in the past two weeks. Peruvians are very festive this time of year.
» 2010 » July
The Ubiquitous in Cusco
There are a few things of that you will see almost everywhere in Cusco are:
Stray dogs; there are many of them, they are everywhere and they are usually in packs of 3. I have found such new meaning to the phrase let sleeping dogs lie, because I would say that at least 1/3rd of the dogs are sleeping in the middle of the sidewalk and you must just step aside to get pass. Thank goodness these stray dogs do not bother you whatsoever.
Street Merchants: All you have to do is walk down a main street, that would be down the Ave Sol or in the Main Plaza (Plaza de Armas) and you will be approached by people selling all kinds of merchandise. You can barely pass on the street or have a conversation without saying “no gracious” 5-6 times before you are left alone. That is, until the next person approaches you. This is the tourist capital of Peru, so people literally come out of the rural areas and nearby mountains(the wood works) to sell stuff to tourists, pan handle and pick pocket. Every main road, attraction or plaza is full of Peruvians selling things on the street: llama and alpaca sweaters (fake), blankets, hats, food (corn, ice cream, fruit, nuts, something that looks like a big pork skin), candy, sodas, paintings, post cards etc. Some of them are rather aggressive too and its quite annoying. However, I realize that underemployment in Peru is rampant and for many, selling goods is their livelihood. I work about 45 minutes away in the poorer rural area, which is where many of the merchants live. There are mud houses and many places without running water. If selling merchandise on the street was my mine source of income, perhaps I would be aggressive about it too. There are also a lot of beggars – the crippled, and women with children that it is increasingly hard to pass.
Indigenous women in dress code. In Peru, unlike many Latin American countries, 50% of the population is indigenous, the remaining persons are of mixed Spanish and indigenous origin. Here in Cusco, there are a lot more indigenous. The older women pretty much have a uniform/dress code. They will be carrying a colorful piece of Peruvian fabric tied around their shoulders with either a baby or merchandise in it, with a sombrero on top of hair which is pulled back into two braids connected at the bottom, with a sweater, a puffy dress/skirt that moves a little past the legs, leg warmers, and sandals or penny loafers. These women intrigue me, because they are everywhere and all dressed alike. I want to know their story, where they live, what their life has been like. Most of them are older and round, with very tanned with cracked skin. I am baffled at how they carry these sack on their backs down roads, up hills and on very crowded minibuses.
Others: Claro signs (that’s the cell phone company) and Inca Kola – the national soda – its bright yellow in color and supposedly syrupy sweet and tastes like bubble gum.
Indigenous Woman
Oh indigenous woman
what is in that rainbow colored sack
is that wheat for my bread
a baby or a bundle of corn on your back
Where are you coming from
Do you live up on that hill
Are you selling me this food
because its the only way to pay for your meals?
Oh grandmother of Quechua
Is that the earth under your nails
Was that you cutting grass on the slope
Or on the side of the road making sales
Oh indigenous woman
your skin is like cracked caramel colored leather
Is that from long days in the sun
toasted by the weather?
Oh grandmother of Peru
That dusty brown sombrero reminds me of the old wild west
is that an alpaca sweater over
a traditional dress?
Oh indigenous woman
Who platted those twin braids
for they never leave from your side
Is that a wattling walk or an old Incan stride
Oh Quechuan woman
does that wool warm your legs
Are those penny loafers comfortable enough
for the roads your life takes?
Oh grandmother of Peru
Whats behind that round belly
is much maiz, chilled chicha or pollo 8 ways
whats in that cardboard box that you carry today?
Oh indigenous woman
Can you stop and talk for a while
to show me your ways
I’m intrigued by your unique style
the strength of those shoulders,your toothless smile
Oh indigenous woman
with the stripped textile strapped to your back
how heavy are your burdens
and how deep is your lack?
Here you can have my bus seat
I’ll buy what you are selling
and eat what you eat
Oh indigenous woman
I’ve been admiring from the sidelines
You are a walking artifact in modern times
Incan Ruins in Cusco
Speaking of artifacts, yesterday I went to an tour of Cusco city. Just to give you some background it was the seat of the Incan empire and was said to be shaped like a puma, the Inca symbol of strength and courage. The head of the puma is Saqsaywomen, the belly is Plaza de Armas and the genitals are Qorikancha.
Qorikancha – these were temples to the sun, stars, moon and another I can’t remember, which were plated with gold. The buildings were made with limestone builders, cut perfectly with nothing holding the together. They were interlocked. My tour guide was Jorge, who was so funny, he got all reved up when he spoke about the Spanish. He would say, this was so and so before the Spanish came and destroyed it. There are two remnants of temples left and the rest of the area is a monastery. They were discovered in the early 1900 after and earthquake. The Spanish had painted them white.
Saqsaywaman – pronunciation very similar to “sexy women”. Its up in the hills about 10 minutes from the city. It was an Incan ceremonial ground built with many 50-70 ton stones. The view from the city was amazing
Tambomachay, known as the “baths of the princess” has two aqueducts which provide spring water year around. There are many water-fountains and great views. It was a Incan resort area I suppose.
The we went to an alpaca factor, where they tough how to tell the difference between baby alpaca and “maybe” alpaca. I saw an alpaca up close and personal and tired on some stuff. It was interested. Alpaca’s are sacred animals here and the material is very expensive, which is why there is a lot of face stuff out there.
Randomness
My favorite thing about Cusco is the sky. I guess because we are so close to it up here, its so crystal clear and present, I could stare at it forever. I am reading this book right now and the writer gives so many vivid descriptions of the sky it reminds me of here. I want to incorporate them all into a poem but here is one: “the light is so lemon-colored and clear it is almost possible to forget there are other places in the world.” This quite a contrast from the coast, because the sky in Lima was the color of stone.
I found this pastry shop that sells this croissant like pastry with some kind of cheese and chocolate inside. Soooo good. Its only two soles, which is essentially $.75.
My least favorite thing here is its rather dusty. Its kind of hard to get used to the taste of dust in my mouth. Second runner up is that at least every 20 minutes it gets cold, then its blazing, so all I do is take my jacket on and off.
For some reason I thought I was here for 5 weeks and I miscalculated and its 6 weeks. Haha This is probably one of my least favorite places for some reason (not that its at all bad, its just my least favorite so far) and I’ll be here the longest. There is much to see and do here, so I am grateful that I do not have to be in a rush and can spread it out.
Note to self: do not leave the house without a roll of toilet paper because there will not be any in public restrooms.
There are festivals quite often this time of year. In the past two days, I have randomly run into 3 parades.
So far I have taken one thousand, one hundred and forty eight pictures. At this rate I will have close to 10,000 pictures at the end of this trip. Yikes!!! I think I will make a photo book of each region: Latin America, Europe, Africa, East & West Asia & Australia.
» 2010 » July
Today is day number 5 in Cusco and I can´t say that i have been exactly enjoying myself. For the past few days I have been slightly under the weather, nothing serious, but altitude sickness is no fun. I have had some headaches, dizziness, been tired and dehydrated and not related to that I´ve had stomach problems. I feel alot better today though. Note to self, do not even attempt to brisk walk or go up stairs faster than a snails pace because you will feel like you are having an asthma attack. I feel 80 here.
Life is Peru is full of variables. Such as:
Is there going to be hot water for none of the shower, part of the shower or all of the shower time? Depends on the day.
How much will it cost to get to the volunteer office? 2.50, 3 or 4 soles (it changes by the cab driver)
What is the actual price? 25% of the first quote, 50% or 60%? (you have to bargain everywhere)
Will the school be open today? Will the classes be on a regular schedule or will this be a holiday or random cancellation? Will there be a strike in town?
What time will our host mom serve dinner? 7:30, 8:00 or 8:45
How many times will i get hounded to by something on the street a day? 5, 10, 25
Besides all of the above mentioned annoyances, this is a beautiful place. Cusco is in the mountains and close to Machu Picchu. Its sunny and in the 70´s during the day, but drops down to the 40´s at night. Its is one of the most historic cities in all of Central America, so there is quite a mix of history, tourism and nightlife. Hundreds of thousands of tourists come threw here to visit Machu Picchu. On the street you may see: a Quechua women with a sombrero placed on her head with two braids hanging down and a colorful fabric sack on her back either carrying a baby or some products to sell;westerners with cameras and backpacks; buses that are really minivans stuffed with people;incan murals; colonial architecture and old catholic churches; stores full of modern electronics;travel agencies advertising tours and people selling peruvian cuisine, snacks, clothes etc. Up in the mountains, where i work, you might see a llama, donkey or pig out in the street.
Tuesday, I visited El Morina, affectionately called the black market. You can buy anything here, it reminds me of a fleamarket. The favs among volunteers are the pirated DVD´s for 3 soles- which is essentially one dollar. At my volunteer house, me and 9 other volunteers have been watching the first few seasons of Grey´s Anatomy nightly. My host family – Ivan, his wife Liz and their two sons, have at least 100 of these DVD´s.
Yesterday, I went to the coca museum. Coca is the plant that we get cocaine from, but for the Peruvian and ancient Incan culture it is quite the sacred plant. You chew on it for altitude sickness and it also has so many other uses, such as for sicknesses, religious offerings, chocolate etc. Its also the most popular tea here and which i drink because its good and for altitude sickness, so I would not pass a urine test at the moment.
Today was my first full day at my volunteer placement. A school in Poroy, about a 45 minute bus ride from Cusco. Its a large school and we teach children from about 5-12. I have two collegues, Liz from Wisconsin and Glebe from Moscow. Yesterday, when me and the volunteer coordinator arrived, the director couldn´t fine them and had no clue what was going on (this is quite normal though).
I take it by the way all eyes where on me when we walked into the playground, that they do not see too many black people around these parts. Both today and yesterday, at least 20 children surrounded me and just stared. Then, they wanted to know where I was from -some yelled Africa- and wanted to touch my hair. I broke the ice with photos and hi fives, but I was a main attraction, so that will take some getting used to, but the children are cute, affectionate and eager to learn. I got many hugs-as well has hair touching- on my way out.
Now, I am trying to figure out where to start with my tours around this area, there is so much to see and so many companies to choose from. I will likely take a cusco tour this weekend. Since i am going to be here for over a month, i´d also like to find a church. I was talking to a girl from the US who has found one, so maybe I will visit with her on sunday.
I´ll keep you guys updated
» 2010 » July
Today is my one month travel anniversary. It still kind of seems unreal. I have been to 3 countries and 10 cities in the past 30 days, what a world-wind. Overall, I don’t really have any major complaints, thought there have been ups and downs. So I will give you my top 5 highlights and low beams from my first month as a female nomad. They are not in any particular order.
HIGHLIGHTS:
The Scenery
In all three countries Guatemala, Costa Rica and now Peru, there are so many beautiful places and so much green. My favorite places have been Tikal – a Mayan ruin, Manuel Antonio beach and Volcano Arenal in Costa Rica and this Remembrance exhibit at the National Museum in Lima, Peru about the 20 years of civil war in Peru. I have only been on Cusco for 2 days, but there is so much to see, so I will hike Machu Picchu, go to lake Titicaca – the highest navigable lake in the world and maybe go to the jungle.
On of my scariest moments was climbing a temple in Tikal which was 200 meters high. The stairs were more like a ladder, getting up was half the battle and getting down was even crazier. The view was amazing, amongst the now jungle were traces of a city over 1000 years old.
The Food
Each country is different, but I have been taking it all in, literally. I think I have gained at least 7 lbs.
In Guatemala, I had more black beans in two weeks then I had in my whole life. Black beans and eggs for breakfast, black beans and rice for lunch and chicken, vegetables and a big bowl of black beans for dinner. I was fiber filled and regular. I never got tired of them really. I have a new appreciation for them. There, I really liked the sweet bread and this wonderful coconut soup I had in Livingston, the Caribbean side of Guatemala. Tasado Garufina I think it was called. DELICIOUS!!!
In Costa Rica, the staple with every meal was rice and beans (pinto gallo). I liked the casado (chicken breast, beans and rice, potatoes and a salad) too. The arroz con pollo there was great. Also they love them some friend chicken in both Costa Rica nd Guatemala. I have learned chicken is a staple everywhere I guess and wrote a poem about this Chicken Diva.
The food in Peru is word renowned. Here its rice or potatoes with everything. he potato originated in Peru and they have over 3000 varieties. I have to try cuy, with is guinea pig (i’ll let you know what I think), but I have had ceviche- (seafood cooked with lime) and some other chicken and meat dishes. All good. My favorite alchoholic drink is a Pisco Sour and favorite non alcholic drink is Chi Cha Morada.
Hospitality-Conversation
To be quite honest, I have met well over 100 people this month on planes, buses, shops, tours, cab drivers, volunteers, Servas hosts, hostel dwellers and host families. This has been the greatest gift to me along the way. A smiling face when you are tired and disoriented, someone siting next to you and striking up a conversation about travel, life, past experiences and everything but the kitchen sink. Or meeting someone at breakfast at a hostel and then spending the rest of the day with them sight seeing. What I have loved most is getting to know the people at the volunteer placements, the children and teachers.
For example:
Oscar, my host in Guatemala, Astrid on of the teachers at the school and Mario on of the students are three of my absolute favorites in Guatemala and overall.
There was the french guy who taught me sudoku on the plane – he kept looking at me and smiling so I invited him over to sit next to me and we chatted it up.
Cindy and Margarita were my favorites in Costa Rica. Cindy is a native and we had such a good time and conversation over dinner and drinks. Margarita was my Servas host in San Jose, who opened up her home and heart to me.
Most recently in Peru there was Lucha and Adriana both whom I met at the hostel. Lucha an I had a 3-4 hour conversation at the hostel bar, she does these amazing prints on the back of old paper grocery store bags, has a clothing line and dj’s and Adriana is from Argentina, I spent two days with site seeing in Lima.
Just yesterday, I met two girls at my volunteer headquarters, Mary and Sharon, who are trying to learn English. I sparked up a conversation with them and we talked for maybe an hour and a half, me practicing Spanish and them English. We talked about our countries and families. I showed them pictures of my family and my travels. My Spanish is still lacking though, after 6 months of study, I am still in the basic class, stuck in between knowing more than my counterparts and too little for level 2. haha
Teaching/The Students:
The best thing about this trip was teaching English. Its not as hard as you would think, but it pretty draining though. Contrary to what most people think, you don’t necessarily need to speak their language fluently. My TEFL teacher actually recommends not translating, but using other means of communication. I taught students ages 5-29 at a school for children with special needs/learning disabilities. It was fun, the kids were eager to learn and they loved me. Volunteering and not just traveling is on of the best decisions I think I made about this trip.
LOWBEAMS:
Travelers Fatigue:
My brain hurts a lot from trying to get oriented and trying to speak and understand Spanish. Its tiring arriving at knew places all of the time and having to get accustomed to them, then leaving to go to some place else and begin the process over gain. The first day is the hardest, actually getting off the bus or plane to a new place is hardest. I have to gear myself up to take it on. It’s like being born again in every city, arriving wide eyed, not knowing these people or this place. I haven’t really been lonely, but felt alone at times, but then I usually met someone, strike up a random conversation which makes my day.
Bug Bites:
I have only gotten one bug bite here in Peru, but in the other two countries, it was ridiculous. I had 30 easy. I got bed bug bites from this nasty hostel I stayed in on an otherwise amazing tour. Those bad boys last weeks and itch for that long as well. Mosquitoes were also crazy, I guess that is what you can expect in a rainforest.
Broken Luggage:
I was going the wrong direction on this dirt road looking for my hostel in the blazing heat (I was soaked by the end of this 15 minute walk) and was then I suppose that the wheels on my carry-on got all jacked up by the rocks and gravel. So I dragged it the rest of the way. On top of that the zipper broke, so that it takes me at least 5 minutes and 15 tries to zip and unzip – so fun. Even more fun is that for some reason, the airport people always want me to open it up, to find nothing but my nail clippers and I have to go through the same ordeal over again. This girl at the hostel I was staying in who is on her 8th month of travel – I met her on the last day- told me to just remember and say to myself “this is making me a better person.” That’s kind of funny to me, I didn’t really get that sense at the airport. So anyway, I bought me new backpack. So its official, I am a backpacker.
Being a female nomad:
Not that I wasn’t aware, but this trip has made me even more aware of the fragility of being a female in this world, so one has to constantly be on guard and more awake to potential danger. The absolute most annoying thing is that here it gets dark at 5:30/6pm and you shouldn’t really go out at night by yourself. So either you get a group or you stay in. That really sucks.
Skip the big city:
This is not really a downside more than a lesson. Of the three capital cities of I have been in so far, I could have skipped them all, the pearls are in the pastures hands down. My advice is to stop in the big cities for a day and then head for the coast, mountains, jungles, rainforests, small towns an historic sights on the outskirts. That is where the culture is, that is where the greenery is and the people’s smiles seem wider.
Poverty:
Almost everywhere, mostly in the big cities are beggars, kids entertaining for tips or women with soiled faces and a baby latched to her back or selling candy. Its hard to walk past this and resist the urge to hand out money.
In Summary:
I got back and forth between this is the best and craziest thing I have ever thought of, but it usually balances itself out. I wake up sometimes and think wow, I am in Peru or I am at some site and think, OMG this is the most beautiful site I have ever seen, or I meet someone that warms my heart and paints a smile across my face wider than the one I had the day before. Alternatively, sometimes I sit on someone’s couch wishing it was my own in the states or wish I could hop in my car and go with one of my friends to hang out. It’s all been worth it and far better than not doing it.
» 2010 » July
I spent 6 days in Lima, Peru, and now I am off to Cusco for 5 weeks of volunteering. To sum up my time here, I will tell/show you what I have experienced alot of :
TRAFFIC AND HONKING
Its gridlock here all times of day and all people(cabs) do is honk. There are traffic directors in little booths in the middle of the street. On my bus tour we sat in one spot for about 20 minutes.
PARKS AND PLAZAS
In every neighborhood, there is a park and a plaza. They are usually central and very nice. In my neighborhood, there is central park and Kennedy park and plazas down by the beach about 1/2 mile away.I heard a jazz band play in the park friday, they were from Ohio. The most famous plaza is in Central Lima, Plaza de Armas.
CATS, CABS and CASINOS
Stray cats in parks is not something I readily experience in the US, here I spotted at least 5-7 in the park near my hostel.
I am not kidding when I say that everybody drives a cab, there are white, black, red, and yellow taxi cabs. I would say that at least 65% of the vehicles on the road are cabs, 30% buses and like 5% are private vehicles. Honking is such a problem that some areas of the city have no honking signs.
Casino’s are on every other corner. I’ve seen at least 3 Atlantic city signs.
YELLOW BUILDINGS
Maybe that was the color of choice during colonial times, but a lot of the buildings downtown were yellow.
GOOD FOOD
Everything I have tasted (arroz con pollo, empenadas, chicken sandwich peruvian style, ceviche, lomo saltado, braised chicken, many potato varieties and chicha) here has been good, everything the buffet I had was excellent, the street vendors and even random eateries are good. I think I gained 5 lbs this week.
CEVICHE
There were so many different kinds, just fish, just shrimp, just octopus, mixed, chicken, yellow, whatever you like.
FUTBOL FANS
More so than anywhere I have visited, the watching of futbol (soccer) here has been crazy. From the hostel visitors to restaurant staff to 5 deep on the street watching in a restaurant window, its bananas. Then there was the HUGE stage in the middle of downtown with soccer on a 20 foot screen. Fanatic isn’t even the word. Its rather exciting though, even if I am not a big fan.
Randomness
Just in case i forget and you are reading this….HAPPY BIRTHDAY to my sister Danielle, and many, many many more birthdays and blessings.
» 2010 » July
I have been in Lima, the capital of Peru since late Monday evening. Its a pretty large city of about 9 million people, which is about 30 percent of the countries population. Its in the 60′s here and cloudy because it’s winter. I dont think i have seen the sun since i arrived. Its a metropolitan city like any other city, with alot of people, parks, plazas, museums and mall. I’ve done quite a bit since I have been here including:
Tuesday, I stayed with a Servas host Margarita and her two daughters Jessica and Melissa. We toured the City in the areas on the coast/beach called Calloa and Punta. I ate Lomo Saltado, which is like beef with vegetables. My favorite drink in Chicha, a dark purple corn drink. Its made with purple corn (i think they soak the corn in water and add sugar). Closest thing to it’s taste and color is grape juice. We also visited a few malls. Malls are pretty much the same all around the world.
Wednesday, I did absolutely nothing special, it was my first normal day and i relished it to the fullest. I did my hair, washed my clothes, watched 2 movies with Jessica, her boyfriend Dick and Melissa and ate Ceviche. Ceviche here is the best in the world and its basically seafood a salsa like dish and the seafood is cooked by lemonjuice. On the side were these large corn cornles (the largest i have ever seen) dried out like popcorn and this delicious potato. Peru has over 100 potato varieties.
Thursday,I had lunch with another Servas host Carmen at her house 
, saw Blan P in the movies (wait till it comes out on video) and to my dismay as soon as i got back to the hostel someone was watching a bootleg version. What do you do. Then I was up at the hostel bar taking to Lucha for most of the night. A 35 year old california of mixed israeli and puerto rican descent, who DJ’s and exposed me to the world of Afro-Peruvian music (thank God for youtube). She has been to mexico, columbia, argentina, indonesia and india, quite the world traveler. Lucha is also a photographer who prints alot of her work on recycled paper bags, its actually pretty amazing. She showed me prints from all of those places. she also has a clothing line: Besos not Bombs. Besos are kissed. Go to her website if you like. Lucha loves New York which is probably why we clicked as soon as she sat at my table an we proceeded to talk the next 3 hours.
Friday, I visited Central Lima including the oldest Monastery in Peru and its catacombs - i saw skeletons from the 17th century, it was creepy. They were under the monastery in these cave like basements made of limestone, seagull egg yoke and rocks. There were 25,000 people buried there. Like i said, it was creepy, but interesting. I felt like I was in a scene of an Indiana Jones Movie. I would have taken pictures, but you couldn’t.
On Friday, i took a city bus tour at night (i was freezing), went to an AMAZing buffet (did i tell you Peruvian food is some of the best in the world) and saw a traditional dance show.
Today, I visited the National Museum. I learned about the Incan civilization and peru before and after the spanish conquest. Though, by far the most impactful thing that i saw there was a photo exhibit produced by the truth and reconciliation commission of peru on the 20 years from 1980-2000 of internal conflict between the national government and the Shinning Light communist guerilla. The exhibit was very sobering, equipped withimages of bombings,many dead bodies, news reports, testimonies, rallies, and much death and destruction. I believe 70,000 lives were lost in this time of civil war. The name of he exhibit is remembering (thats how it is translated) - a country that does not remember its past does not have a future it said. These images and the Peruvianghettos on the hill in the horizon outside of the museum/city remind me of just how ugly the world is, and how we all need to face that truth and move toward reconcillations of we have a chance at moving forward. I feel the wheels of a poem coming, to be continued for that one……
Randomness
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I’ve met people from England, Switzerland, California, Argentina, Denmark and of course Peru. Adreana was my traveling companion yesterday and today as we visited central lima. She is from Argentina and is also a single women traveling. This is a trend that I have experienced, so many women who just want to experience and see the world, so they set out with openness and a backpack. Its pretty cool. So ladies, feel fee to take yourself on a trip or vacation or at least out to dinner or the movies to start women…its empowering. While backpacking, its been great, because i always meet people to do things with, but when i want to go off and be alone i can do that too. Its not so bad at all. Only thing i really miss is familiarity.
Note to self, get the guidebook before you get to the country. I went to about 10 bookstores searching for a good Peru guidebook. I finally got a used one at a decent price. Most places either did not have lonely planet (that best) or it was $15 overpriced. So I went ahead a got a western europe one for my voyage throughout Europe after peru, learned from that mistake even if it was $15 more than what i would have paid in the us.
In Kennedy park near my hostel there is a sign that says stray cats are prohibited and right next to which i saw about 5 stray cats. Obviously cats dont read these signs. 
I just thought this pic was funny
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