» 2010 » June

On Sunday, I stayed with my Servas host Margarita. Servas is a hospitality organization in which you can stay for 2 days with people in 130 countries around the world that are members. Margarita is 62 and has been a servas host for 29 years. Originally she wanted to do it so that here children could keep up their english, but now she loves it and has had well over 100 people from various countries stay with her over the years. Margarity is a widow, a retired ESL teacher and she is from Limon, the Caribbean side of Costa Rica. She LOVES limon and describes herself as being costa rican with a black heart. I have video of her talking about how much she loves it there, the culture and her childhood growing up.  You can tell she loves and/or was influenced by black caribbean culture because she has paintings of black people all throughout her house and also paintings for the beach. I think there is a painting on every wall in her house of  people, nature and many of the beach. She is a painter herself and so is Louis her boyfriend, whom she met at a painting class. Louis is doing a oceanic tile mural on her backyard wall, its great.  Margarita loves calypso music, she loves to dance and she loves some of the food native to Limon like aikee and salt fish, some type of tarts i forgot the name of and rice with coconut. It was a joy to have met her, I just wish i was able to stay more than one day and visit her hometown in Limon. She spoke so well of it and about it, i almost felt like i had been there.

While i am there we eat pinto gallo, arroz con pollo and drank tamarindo. Everything was soo good. I pretty much had my own suite while i was there. The upstairs had two rooms, a bathroom, living room with tv and a porch. I wish i had stayed longer. I felt so taken care of. We talked about her children (3) and grandchildren(4), how she met her husband, how he died, some of her joys and victories. I must say that although so much newness all the time is kind of hard to get used to, I love just getting to know people, their hospitality to me is priceless

Margarita

White skin, latina tongue and a black heart

Pinto gallo, coconut rice, calypso music and walls draped with sunsets on the coast

and ebony images are my works of art

Born by the carribean sea

the music, food and culture are dancing to merengue inside of me

Limon is where i am from

though I live in San Jose

Where I spent my childhood days will always have my affections under lock and key

Its who I am and who I will always be

A Costa Rican wave in the Caribbean sea

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» 2010 » June

Its Sunday morning, but by the time you get this it will be Monday, my last day in Costa Rica. I will take a 4 hour, $4 bus ride back to San Jose, stay with my Servas host Margarita and fly out in the afternoon.

Yesterday, I was in La Fortuna and I visited Arenal, one of 6 active volcanos in Costa Rica. The country has 111 volcanos. Arenal is about 5000+ feet above sea level and has been active since it erupted in 1968.  Before then people in the surrounding town did not even know it was a volcano. Its erupted, killing about 80 people. The interesting thing is a week before the volcano, the water begin to warm up, there were minor earthquakes and the animals begin to move away. The town was completely destroyed and now where the town used to be is a man made lake and when the water is low you can still see the church steeple sticking out of the water.

Now Arenal/La Fortuna is a complete tourist area and in 42 years, the ash has created another mountain next to Arenal. It erupts all day everyday, and I was lucky to even get clear view, as it is often surrounded by clouds. It is completely green on the from side facing La Fortuna, because larva only flows to the north, south and west, not to the east. The backside is dark gray. In the day larva looks like white dots rolling down the mountain, in the evening, its large red rocks cascading to the base of the mountain.

I saw: Volcan Arenal and Lake Arenal, larva rocks both white and red rolling down a volcano, sugar cane, waterfalls and hummingbirds (and a hummingbird nest) zooming past at about 45 mph

I smelled: real citronella (natural mosquito repellant) and vanilla

I ate: An empenada and this lovely dinner of meat, bean and rice with plantain

I felt: Water of about 10 different temperatures in the Baldi hot springs. Hot-springs are basically streams or rivers of hot water that have been heated by larva. Baldi is like a hot springs theme park with 25 pools with temperatures ranging from 90-150 degrees. They also have cooling pools, a waterslide and wetbars. I felt water so hot you can only stand to dip your foot in for a second. If you need to cool off, they have cooling pools. I went down the waterslide and got two lungs full of water, which is always fun, not.

I heard: A volcano erupt, it was a loud rumbling, like the volcano was spewing rocks and smoke out of its mouth, cursing the sky and the stories of William, our tour guide who; learned English from tourists, grew up in the jungle here and has climbed Arenal 8 times (its illegal to climb by the way)

Costa Rica Synopsis

It has been fun and seemed like a real vacation. I stayed in 4 hostels ranging from 1 to 5 stars, bused to 3 cities, saw a metropolitan area, mountains, rain forests, waterfalls, volcano’s, lakes, rivers, a coffee farm, animals like monkeys, sloths and hummingbirds, eat arroz con pollo, casado, empenadas from typical sodas, drank natural fruit juices of strawberry, mango and blackberry and laid on beaches, at pools and in hammocks. I met people from Peru, Denmark, England, Nicaragua, US, Scotland of course, Costa Rica. My favorite Costa Rican was Cindy. I got her to do the where I am from piece for me.

Generally, Costa Rica felt like a big themepark, there was so many tourist companies advertising everything from scubba diving, zip lining, horseback riding, canopy tours, hiking, biking, atv riding, hot springs  etc. etc. But it was in deed beautiful. I would recommend it.

Click HERE to view all of my Costa Rican Photo’s on snapfish

Next Stop………..Lima, Peru

» 2010 » June

» 2010 » June

 

I was just planning on being a beach bum on day 5, but life always turns out different then you planned. I woke up and have a cup of free hostel coffee and make me some free pancakes. I have had more pancakes in the past two weeks then in the past two years, but I can say that for a lot of thinks like… sugar, coffee, black beans, eggs, juice etc. Other people are going to Manual Antonio National Park and instead of beaching it alone, I decide to join them. My traveling companions today are AJ from NY, Fefe who has just graduated and moving to San Fran, Trish and Kacie who are friends and they are from Florida. The entrance is $10 and we decided not to get a guide, which I am super happy about because on the 4 mile trail, we just stopped when we saw other people’s guides and saw the animals that were being pointed out. Today I saw:

  1. Monkeys (on the beach)
  2. A bat, lizards, crabs, raccoons( also on the beach and they are the same everywhere I guess, cause they got in Trish’s bag looking for food )
  3. Sloths – a monkey like animal that moves very slow and sleeps 18 hours a day. They stay in trees and only come down every 30 days to poop. In my pictures you can barely see them, but they look like a ball of fur. There are 100 different varies in costa rica.

 

We hiked around the park for about 2 hours and this is when I learn that your shins can actually pour sweat. But the beach and various views from the trail are amazing. At the beach, the water is warm, the waves are thick and rough and the sand as usual get in ever crevice of your body and belongings. Its a perfect day, not to hot and sunny. It started out looking like it was going to rain and actually did drizzle a bit earlier. A Costa Rican guy at the bus stop  told me he knew the weather well and could tell by the smell and clouds that it was going to clear up in 45 minutes. Of course I dismissed this bustop meteorologist but he was right, which he reminded me of when I came out of the park. He gave me a fist to tap and says “I told you so New York.”

Later that evening, I have a date to meet with Cindy, a friend of a friend that lives here. We have been corresponding for a few days and both are excited to meet. Finally, I get to talk to a real Costa Rican, well she lives here but is actually columbian. She is learning english and speaks well, I am also able to practice spanish a bit. We go into the town of Quepos to eat dinner. Quepos is a quaint downtown about 15 minutes from the beach. Cindy is bubbly, talkative and tells me of her budding love life. I also get a bit of her story, which a one of a number of trails and tribulations, but she is happy and at peace with her life “at this moment” is a phrase she repeats. One of my favorite things to do is sit and listen to people’s stories, its a gem that they reveal to me and I am always honored to take a peak….a their priceless jewels. Cindy takes me to meet her family and her grandmother is a hoot. Grandma Sara and me hit it off, she is 84 and spunky and likes my hair. Apparently she has a younger boyfriend and I tell her that in th US, we woud call her a cougar. We all laugh out loud.

Back at the ranch (the hostel) when I return, there is talk of yet another “ladies night.” I am so over ladies nights, but I am convinced to go. Its 10 of us and we pack 5 into each cab. Its reggae and salsa and I have so much fun. I can’t salsa for a lick, but I have strong partners….mostly two black guys one from Limon and one from the states who lives here now that say they desperately miss black women….there are not many here. After dancing the night away, I end the night with the other backpackers watching the cloudy night sky while swinging in a hammock. I close my eyes and inhale, because the night air has a sweet scent of tranquility and it is like pure beauty, fun and tranquility are triplets that fell asleep in my lap  and are having  tropical dream.

Poem: Tropical Dream

The next day….more beach with AJ and FeFe While i am relaxing, I hear someone yell “New York” and yes, it is bus stop meterologist and I learn that his name is Butch. He tries to sell me drinks, i decline. Later i see Butch with a lobster in his hand. I suppose he just grabed it off the beach.

Now, I am in La Fortuna to visit Arenal, an active volcano, hopefully, i will see larva…and you will too. I love the bus rides here, there is always pastoral views and my favorite thing to see is cows up on very steep hills, its a rather odd site that has become common to be now. On the bus ride, a one eyed harmonica player boards  and begins to sing. Its quite  a spectacle, not sure what he sings about but it is rather funny because he startss to oohhh and ahhhh and the whole bus can do nothing bug laugh out loud.  Crazy does not have a nationality.

Random Stuff

Yesterday was the first day of my trip where i took a shower in a regular lookin g shower. Most of the showers here look odd becuse they have a rather large showerhead that heats the cold water. I am apparently staying at a 5 star hostel tonight with a pool, sauna, air conditioning (this is a luxury in a hostel) and a nice view of the volcano. Arenal Backpackers Resort.

» 2010 » June

I wake up early in the morning on day 4 and decide its time to leave San Jose, its not the most beautiful place and I need to see some beauty. I’m off to the beach…Puerto Viejo (on the Caribbean side) or Manuel Antonio (on the pacific side), because there are many many beaches. I let the front receptionist choose for me, a Frenchman who looks of the Asian persuasion, he says the beaches in Manuel Antonio are beautiful. This is where I will go then. The great thing about backpacking is waking up and deciding you want to be somewhere else and just going. This is what almost everyone I met does. Most people just stop in San Jose for a day or two on their way to somewhere else, because there is not much here. Two girls were going to coco beach, a guy down to panama (a 17 hour bus ride by the way) and someone else is on to Monteverde (which is up north).

I find out what time the bus leaves, make sure there is room at the hostel and hop in a cab to the coca cola bus station. Its a line of buses with no ticket booth in sight. I am happy to see two other people from my hostel looking just as confused as me. We become fast friends, buy our tickets and eat at a soda. A soda is a traditional costa rica restaurant, kind of like a whole in the wall, with cheap but good food. I have a large plate of arroz con pollo and plantain for just $3. Side note, backpacking is like summer camp or the first weeks of college, you make fast friends in short times. You may spend a portion of your trip with these people, a meal, a night on the town or a tour. My traveling companions for the day are Idris and Alice, a couple from Denmark who have been traveling throughout central America for 6 months. We agree that Guatemala is our favorite place. Also on the bus that only costs $7 is the Mexican gentleman from yesterdays tour….its such a small world as I am learning. Another note about backpacking is, you meet so many people that it easier to refer to people by where they are from. So someone might be a country or a city, like Mexico or Denmark or Quebec.  Oh and while we are talking about names….I am often called moraina….meanig dark skinned girl. Its kind of like a term of endearment I guess.

Back to the story…I must commend costa rican bus drivers because this is the second time I have been on a bus going either up or down a mountain and since we are up in the clouds, there is nothing but white in front of us like an all encompassing puff of spoke or deep dense fog. But they drive right through without any trouble.

Four hours later, I arrive at my hostel, drop my bags and eat some casados from across the street (traditional costa rica dish of chicken, rice, beans, plantain, potatoes and a cold slaw type salad), its soo good and only like $4. I also have some natural mixed fruit juice, which is now my favorite thing, its almost like a smoothie. Then its off to the beach to watch the sun set, I exhale because this is what I need and the costa rica I want to be in. Pictures below.

Its off season, so my hostel is pretty empty, but I converse with those who are here, mostly Americans who are backpacking and a lot of surfers. Its muggy and me and my roomate decide it a perfect night for a dip in the pool. Some guys join us and we are hanging out at the pool, under the stars and one guy, Nate the guitar player (I think), plays his guitar as we chat. The pool water is warm, there is not a cloud in the sky and we are surrounded by green mountains and aqua ocean. The night is magical.

My first impressions of Costa Rica

As I was informed by my tour guide the other day, if you do not know Spanish, you can just get by in Costa Rica with one phrase, and that is …….”Pura Vida” Pura vida literally means “pure life”, but the meaning is closer to “full of life”, “purified life”, “this is living!”, “going great”, or “cool! If I were to put it in my own words, it’s kind of similar to “its all good”. It can be used as a greeting, as a word of farewell and to express satisfaction. Its a highly flexible statement used by many Costa Ricans believed to be an expression of a leisurely lifestyle, of disregard for time, and friendliness. However, Costa Ricans use the phrase to express a philosophy of strong community, perseverance, resilience in overcoming difficulties with good spirits, enjoying life slowly, and celebrating good fortune of magnitudes small and large alike (or at least that is what wikapedia says).

Pura Vida Costa Rica

Good Morning

Pura Vida

Good Afternoon

Pura Vida

Good Evening

Pura Vida

How was your day?

Pura Vida

How is the food?

Pura Vida

The beach

Pura Vida

The scenery

Pura Vida

The coffee

Pura Vida

The rainforests

The volcanos

The monkeys, butterflies and tucans

The casados

The natural fruit juice

The Tico’s and Tica’s

Are precisely, definitely and happily

Pura Vida

Costa Rica is Pura Vida

The T-shirts, flags, billboards and signs

ALL scream out load

PURA VIDA!!!

If were were at a poetry jam, I would do a little call and response with Pura Vida….It would be fun.

Ok, back to my impression, its very touristy and I have not had to use Spanish, nor have I met many Costa Rican’s, which makes me sad. I think many of the people here work in tourism, because there is a lot of it, so that has shaped the culture. Fried chicken is big here, Imperial is the beer with the largest advertising budget, this is probably one of the most expensive central American countries, the coffee is obviously good, there are way more mosquitoes than in Guatemala (I have like 20 bits and counting) and the people are very nice and helpful. And of course the scenery is beautiful. I am writing this from my hostel lounge, which on a balcony. The morning is a cool breeze and I am looking out at mountains frosted by clouds behind a rainforest and quenched by the beach to my far far left…..AMAZING. It has been a nice break, although my eyes pop open at 5 am everyday even though I clearly do not have a job or anything pressing to do but roam around, site see and meet people….my life right now is …….Pura Vida!!!

» 2010 » June

Coffee, Volcanos & Waterfalls

Today is day number two in Costa Rica (although, you all will be reading this tomorrow, so it will actually be day 3).  I had an awesome time in Guatemala, but I was glad to be moving on. The airplane ride to Costa Rica was good, a french guy sat next to me and taught me how to play Sudoku, which was awesome. I didn’t get to finish though. What has been so amazing about this trip is the ability to communicate even if you don’t speak the same language. He didn’t speak English very well, I don’t speak french at all (all I remember from school is the alphabet) and he spoke Spanish, but my Spanish is equivalent to a one year old….and nonetheless we had a pretty decent conversation.

The ten thousand dollar air plane question must be, “are you married?” I am 2 for 2 on people asking me that one during airplane rides. Also, nobody I have met so far seems to believe I am 29, which is funny.26 is the highest guess and most people seem to think I am still in college….which seems like an insult and a compliment at the same time.

Anyway, I arrived in Costa rica just fine. This is the rainy season, so the weather is just that, rainy. I guess it’s in the 70′s and it is ok until the early evening. As soon as I arrived at my hostel, it begin to monsoon. Perfect, I didn’t even get a good look at the open air areas because it was raining so hard.

However, the cool hing about hosteling it is, in the first hour or two ,I met people from Denmark, France, Holland, Peru, Switzerland, Canada and of course the Good old US of A. Most people were backpacking throughout central america and stoping in San Jose for a day or two before they are on to somewhere more interesting in Costa Rica. I here until tomorrow and then I am off to the beach in Manuel Antonio.

Today, I went on a combination tour to a coffee plantation, Poas Volcano and Lapaz Waterfall. I was picked up at 6 am, which was awesome after a pretty sleepness night. We had breakfast-eggs, rice and beans, fruit and juice. I will say that I love the juice here, its so good, on the plane I had strawberry juice, for breakfast it was either mango or peach, I couldn’t really tell but its a lot more exciting than orange. We also had an assortment of Costa Rican coffee and it was good. After breakfast, the official coffee tour. The coffee making process was rather interesting. Costa Rica only started growing coffee about 200 years ago and has become one of the biggest and best exporters in the world. I will say though, that Guatemalan coffee is far better though.

Next we visited an active volcano, The Poas Volcano,though it does not shoot larva anymore it does off gas. At the crest of it there is a bluish-green lake that is awesome. However, this volcano was pretty far up and I was not feeling well. I was tired and I think I had altitude sickness. The air was thin and I was huffing and puffing, but the site was beautiful. After making our way back down, we packed back into the van and headed to Lapaz Waterfall, which is an amazing waterfall in the middle of a rainforest. It was nice, but walking through the garden, seemed more like a zoo than a rainforest. I was under the mistaken impression that we would walk through and see the animals in the wild, not in cages. Nonetheless, it was beautiful and serene. I was glad when we were ready to leave thought. It was a long day, they picked me up at 6 am- the first of about 8 stops, and dropped me off at 7, that last stop. It was a full day to say the least. Click HERE for more pictures

Costa Rica is for its eco and adventure tourism. There are national parks, canopy tours, rafting and zip-lining. I’ve done both rafting and zip-lining before, so I want to chill at the beach. Tomorrow or Wednesday I will try to make it over to Manuel Antonio on the pacific coast and if I am feeling extra adventurous, maybe I will go to the opposite coast to the Caribbean side, which would be Puerto Viejo. Both are are about 3.5 hours and a $7 busride from San Jose. I’ll let you all know how it goes.

How am I doing on week 3? I was tired and the air was thin today, so 9 months was looking like a long time and I was like, “what was I thinking,” but after we descended, I felt better and am excited about what is next. I want to chill and get some rest and I think I will treat myself to a night in a nice hotel while I am just touring over the next two weeks, hostels can get old or be stale.

Random Stuff

Today, I locked my hostel locker key in the locker. Great, they had to break the lock.

My traveling companions today were: 5 latino women from New Jersey who were here because they were celebrating the fact that they were all turning 30 this year,  a mother and son from Atlanta – the son in his 40′s or 50′s was getting cheap dental work in Costa Rica – these people had a little bit of $$ and had traveled to almost all the places I am going, a mexican man on his way to Panama City, 2 girls backpacking from the US, a doctor from the UK who was on vacation alone, a travel agent and her husband who was a math teacher that lived in florida and another couple I can’t remember anything about.

» 2010 » June

» 2010 » June

My time here has been great, my only complaints are bugs and the fact that most of the volunteers are 18. I  am so over being around 18-21 year olds all day. I loved teaching english, it was fun, very rewarding and the children were amazing. I will miss them the most. Its funny, after only 8 days of being with them, I think all parties got attached. Yesterday was my last day and I got a group hug from about 30 kids at once. One class drew me pictures, gave me flowers and made me a farewell sign. Ms. Letty – in the pink shirt on my left in the pic below- said she felt such chemistry with me and for some reason thought I was a good teacher.

They said many I love you’s as I was leaving and my best bud Mario gave me about 10 hugs and walked me to the bus stop. They know I am going around the world – to which Mario wanted to know who was paying for all of this, I said Mi y Mi Amigos- so he said in spanish of course, have great travels. He was sad that we would never see each other again. They want me to come back after my trip is over or maybe sometime in their life. For about 5 other kids, it was their last day too, as the person who was paying for them to go to school has ran out of money. I had almost all of the kids sign my notebook like it was a yearbook and a few of them wrote messages. The last thing I will remember is Mario, turning around after walking halfway back toward the school and waving just one more goodbye.  I am not sure how I am going to do this 5 more times at my volunteer placements, but its a testament of how quick we can make connections and fall in love with a people and a place. More to come…….

For my last day here,  I am going to tour Antigua, go to the top of a mountain where there is a cross and you get a great view of the city – you can also see the cross from all over the city, eat Pollo Campero – the KFC of guatemala, and hang out with some friends. I need to just chill and soak it all in. Next stop is Costa Rica, and i hope to relax. This has been tiring and I am in need of a vacation. I will be reading “the help” and sipping pina coladas. There I will be staying at a Hostel- Costa Rica Backpakers- and they have a pool, and with my international hospitality – Servas- host. I also hope to make it to Pueto Vieja or Limon, which are cities on the carribean cost. I have a tour set up, which is called… the best of costa rica. I’ll let you all know what i think.

E

» 2010 » June

The Best of Antigua, Guatemala

+++ DISCLAIMER- the spell check here is in spanish, so there will probably be many spelling errors

Top 5 Amigos

Mario – The 13 year old boy at my school, we bonded the first day while both of us were in the principals office. He gives me hugs everyday and today, since it was the last day, he walked me outside of the school and to the bus stop. He hopes I have a good trip around the world. Mario has 10 brothers and sisters and wears a winter had everyday. 

Oscar – Oscar is my host dad and he is great. He cooks 8-10 girls three really good meals a day and all of the sweet bread you can eat and I love sweet bread. He is eager to learn english and helps me with my spanish. Yesterday was fathers day here and all of the girls bought him a rum cake, his favorite.  He listens while we eat and loves to repeat catch phrases. Oscar wrote a “where i am from” poem which i will post later. Oscar has 3 children and a wife and has been living in Antigua for 28 years. 

Astrid - Astrid is 17, but she is a teacher here and she works directly with Jose, whom i perceive is autistic. She is super sweet and we also clicked.  I got her to perform the “where i am from” poem and while we were working that, she was gracious enough to share alot of her story with me. This girl has been through sooo much in her short life and has percervered and her light is so bright now. She said, she likes me because i am always smiling when I come there. We will be facebook friends. Also note, that everybody in the world is on facebook, ALL of the teachers at the school are on facebook. So crazy!!! Astrid and I will meet tomorrow at the Central Park here, to hand out on my last full day here. She is from Antigua and will show me around. 

Paola – Paola is half Guatemalan and is actually a volunteer, but we clicked well. She is from DC, so she is actually the one person I met here that I might actually see again. Also note that I have probably met over 75 people here, between teaching and volunteering. Paola went on the Tikal trip last week and about 7 of us went to Guatemala City yestearday. This is a picture of her with some exotic fruit at the market.

Carlos – Carlos is the first person I saw at the airport, he does all of the transportation and weekend trips for my volunteer organizations. So he was our guide at Tikal and in Guatemala City. Carlos is rather tall for a Guatemalan, most men are like 5.6 tops. He is like 5.9 which is tall here.  Carlos’ family lives in Chicago, but he lives here and runs a travel business. He also has a hell of a walk on him.

Favorite Dish

Tapado Garifuna – a coconut soup, I have when we were in Livingston, the carribean section of the country. It was beyond finger licking good.

Favorite Tourist Site

Tikal hands down, its the face of the country and appropriately so. Its amazing, beautiful and well worth the 10 hour drive.

Guatemala in Words and Pictures

The top ten things you will see in Antigua

  • Greenary- Antigua is pretty much surrounded by mountains and volcanos
  • Guards with Guns
  • Women selling fruit  at stands
  • Parks and Old Catholic Churches
  • Panadaria’s and Tienda’s – little convenient stores at mid block and on corners.
  • Gallo, Tigo and Claro Signs
  • Women dressed in colorful clothing and carrying stuff on their heads
  • Colorful buildings – buildings are no more than 2 stories tall and span the color specture. Here is a poem i wrote about it – JUICY FRUIT
  • Alot of PDA- public display of affection. Seriously, at the park next to my house, there is at least one couple making out every time i pass. My housemates and I affectionately call it – PDA Park.  Wherever you are, at the park, at the bar, walking down the street, you can probably see someone cuddled up or kissing.
  • Tuc Tuc’s, Chicken Buses, Mopeds and Scooters and Cobblestones

MORE PICTURES – VIEW MY ENTIRE PICTURE ALBUM ON SNAPFISH


I will try to give you some idea of what Antigua is like

You will hear — buses going by with loud engines, roosters crowing in the morning and dogs barking at night. There is almost always a constant zoom zoom. For some reason you can also hear random fireworks going off.

You will see – colorful chicken buses packed with Guatemalan faces, people on motor cycles and scooters, many people walking, women with bags and pots on their head, vendors or street corners selling fresh cut mango’s and pineapples, women with baskets selling candy, nuts, colorful faboric and gum, corner stores on corners and mid block, men walking with Machetes (these are grass cuter and people who work in fields), children in uniforms walking to and from school. Tigo, Claro (Cell phone companies) and Gallo (its beer, similar to Budweiserr) signs everywhere. There are many restaurants and coffee shops. There are more places with WiFi then I have every seen in my life. Also, almost at every bank, store or nice restaurant there are guards with Guns. There was even a guard with a gun in the equivalent of 7-11. Big guns too, shot guns. You will see the remains of old churches, many parks and a portrait of green mountains at your every side.

You will smell black beans and bread from the panaderia (there is one on every block)

You will taste soups, black beans and rice, corn tortillas, chile rellenos, exotic fruit and vegetables and pollo campero fried chicken. There is also mayonnaise on everything. Guatemalan coffee is the best coffee that i have ever had, even better than Brazil.

Some things its hard to get used to:

Not flushing tissue down the toilet, seeing armed guards everywhere, not being able to walk alone at night – it gets dark at 6:30 so after work unless you have a group, I cant really go anywhere, the roads are cobblestone which is quaint, but really hard to walk on all of the time. Being around volunteers 24/7 who on average are about 20 years old. I have met many nice people, but it feels like the first week of college. There are bugs all over, there are ants, I found a scorpion, ants, a butterfly the size of my hand and slug in my house. I get bit by mosquitoes a lot and even perhaps bedbugs from my weekend trip.

Things I like:

The people are nice and are gracious with non Spanish speakers. Antigua is very walkable and if cobble stones are not traffic calming enough, there are speed bumps too. There is no need for traffic lights here either. The children at my school are precious. The food my host family makes is good and plentiful. The greenery is wonderful, the weather is generally nice, besides the rain here and there. I also like that there are alot of places you can get free drinks and wifi.

My most prized possession on this trip has been my eye mask and earplugs. At night, I see no evil and hear no evil. This has been the best sleep I have gotten in a long time.

Random Stuff

One of the kids asked me today if my hair was real or if it was a wig. They were kind of obsessed with my hair, but they liked it though, said it was muy bonita. Another comment on hair,  they must think i am a rasta here because for three days in a few a teen on the street asked me if I wanted to buy weed. So random

This is central america and everyone is absolutely obsessed with the world cup. At 8 am and around lunchtime, all schools, bars and restaurants are playing the game. There is also much world cup signage around these parts.

Yesterday, we were at the western mall and I had a McConos- that would be a cone- from the McDonalds ice cream kiosk. So random!!!

Also at the mall yesterday, I saw a sign for African Smoothies, can someone please tell me what an “African Smoothie” is and how is that different from any other type of smoothie.

I bet you have never seen one of these signs while going into a nice restaurant to eat lunch.

Last night, I was awaken by an EARTHQUAKE. How cool is that, it was minor, but the whole house shook and my bed moved about 2-3 inches away from the wall. I thought i was dreaming and was not sure of what happened until my roomate whispered enthusiatically that we had just experienced an earthquake. That was a first.


» 2010 » June

A temple at Tikal

TIKAL

The City of Voices called for me

echoing bucolic beauty and

ancient aw inspiring

temples arched on a grand limestone base

I went to see this metropolis of antiquities

inscribed by a Mayan face

Through mountain views on snaking roads

across still lakes under clouds resting on rolling hills of green

around scenery rouged with rocks, cows, horses and Guatemalan themes

After long hours of gorgeous views making love to my vision

With a brain that could hardly believe my eyes

I arrived back in time

To a botanical gold mine with history sublime

Imagine

that here and there

now trees, leaves and animal species

once sat

A city of colorful homes,

temples made of perfectly cut stone and

mighty kings and queen sitting on thrones

It’s residents are long gone

but they have not left us alone

Their values, culture and wisdom

are here at Tikal alive and written in stone

MY WEEKEND TRIP TO TIKAL

The face of Guatemala is Tikal, which is the City of Voices. You will likely see Temple V on a Guatemalan postcard. Tikal is a Mayan city which was inhibited between 200 and 900. It was one of the most important cities in the Mayan empire and at its height there were about 150,000 residents. Last weekend, I ventured 10 hours north to visit these Mayan ruins. The whole trip was quite an experience. Me and 13 other volunteers boarded two buses at 2pm on Friday, not knowing what to expect. Our minds were about to be blown and our eyes would be tantalized.

First, have I mentioned that Guatemala is probably one of the greenest places I have ever visited. On the way there, though it was a long ride, I wanted to stay awake as long as I could because there was so much beauty. There was mountain after mountain, hill after hill of green foliage of various shades on the horizon. Imagine every green vegetable you can think of, shake it up and sprawl it across a landscape. That’s what it looked like.

The first night, after 5 hours of driving, we stopped Rio Dulce and had dinner at this restaurant on the water. We had to take boat over to it. The food wasn’t very good, neither was the hostel actually, but the natural area was great. The next morning, we got up at 6am and had a good breakfast. I should note that every meal includes beans and tortillas. I had eggs, fruit and poorly cooked bacon with coffee and tortillas. We boarded a boat at 8 and spent the day driving around the Caribbean sea. First stop were the hot springs, which are hotter than a sauna on top and cool at the bottom. It was amazing. Next we passed a small island of migratory birds. Then we stopped for a snack and drinks at the beach. There, I rested in a hammock. It was a nice day, not too hot and sunny. It felt like a vacation, but got slight hints of otherwise. Such as, and this is a side note, at quite few restaurants during the weekend, there are random mangy animals roaming around, which is kind of gross. At the boat restaurant were cats (yuck), at the beach were wild turkeys and mangy dogs (gross) and the next day there were gecko’s runny around the walls and another mangy dog. OK, back to the story. At the beach, Micheal, a 14 year old volunteer visiting with his sister, lost his shoes and got stung by a jellyfish. What are you supposed to do when you get stung by a jelly fish? 1 – pee on it 2– apply vinegar 3-apply lemon juice or 4 – rub sand on the area. I have heard all four over the course of my time here and I don’t know what is true. But he was fine. So we left the beach, got back into the boat for more lovely views and 30 minutes of riding with our hair blowing, the wind whispering sweat breezes on our faces and a pseudo water ride as the boat crashed through the waves. The boat crashing through the waves made me feel real bad ass, like we were chasing a bad guy in an action movie. Miami vice -ish. We also visited a castle.

We arrived at Livingston. I spotted black people from afar. This made me happy, because i’ve seen maybe three my whole time here. Paco, our trip photographer noted that this is probably the only place that black people live in Guatemala. We ate at this wonderful restaurant. At the recommendation of our guide, I had had the best soup of my life, Tapada Garafuna. It was a coconut broth with shrimp and a whole fish inside. SOOO good. First time I ate a fish head, I tried the eyes on a dare but then spit them out. Later that evening, we stayed at a sketchy hostel in Flores, a very cute island off the water. It was here, that I learned that ants must greet each other. On our wall was a procession of ants. There was one ant going in the opposite direction of the others, it stopped at every ant, and did a pseudo greeting kiss/touch and moved on. I watched it cross the whole wall. Quite amazing and disgusting at the same time. So this is how I learned how ants greet and that is all I have to say about that. I also think I got bit my bed bugs, even better.

The next day we got up at 4 am, left at 5 and arrived at Tikal at 6 am. Its like $20 to get in or $150 Quetzals. By the way, you get 8 quetzals to the dollar and a quetzals is Guatemalan money but its also a bird. We met our tour guide, Javier at the gate, a skinny but cute Guatemalan guy. According to Javier about 26 jaguars live in the park, but they are nocturnal and don’t usually bother tourists. We were also met by some other animal, I cant remember the name. Also note, that all day, as you are walking through the jungle, all you hear are screaming spider monkeys which seriously sound like lions roaring from above. We spotted them congregating in one location, we also spotted Tuscan and alligators.

Tikal was about 65 square meters in its hay day and there are about 17 square meters that are restored. After over 1000 years, many of the buildings are either eroded, have collapsed or they are overgrown with vegetation and look like mini mountains. Most of what have been restored are temples. There are 6 or 7 main temples. We climbed almost all of them. Can I say, that these were the steepest steps in life, hard to get up and scary to get down. One temple is 65 meters in the air which is almost 200 feet. However, you can see the view of the whole city(or former city) from the top, wonderful views, all the main temples and green for what looks like forever. The ledge is like 5 feet, so just don’t look down.

Later, we saw the places where the Mayans practiced human sacrifice, played ball, where the kings lived, stoves, courtyards, and most impressive where the structures the denoted the solstice. At one location in Tikal there are 6 structures denoting the location of the sun during Jun-November and December to February. Its also impressive how all the stones were cut perfectly with no metal and the rocks were moved with no wheels. We walked around for about 6 hours, ate a quick lunch, watched it rain and drove a whole 10 hours home. It was worth it thought. My only complaint were these two super intense , loud and talkative young girls which I think worked everyone’s nerves. After this weekend, I got a good mix of natural beauty and history, bonded with some volunteers but was definitely happy to not have to travel in a pack anymore. I made some memories, which is what I am after.